How to replace a Kitchen Faucet | Replace it within an hour

Turn off the water — both hot and cold supply valves under the sink. Turn them clockwise until they stop. Then turn the faucet on to release any pressure and drain the remaining water sitting in the lines. Put a bowl or rag underneath before you disconnect anything because there’s always some residual water in the supply hoses. Skipping this step is how you end up soaking wet and angry on your kitchen floor.

Stubborn faucets are almost always caused by corroded mounting nuts that have been in place for years. Spray some penetrating oil (WD-40 works, PB Blaster works even better) up around the nuts and let it sit for 15–20 minutes before trying again. A basin wrench gives you the leverage to break them loose. If the nut is plastic and cracked, just break it off — you’re replacing the faucet anyway, it doesn’t matter. The old faucet’s only job at this point is to get out of the way.

Before buying anything, check how many holes your sink has — one, two, or three. Most modern single-handle faucets need one hole. Two-handle faucets typically need three holes with 4-inch or 8-inch center spacing. Take a photo of your current sink setup and bring it to the hardware store if you’re unsure. The hole count and spacing determine your options more than anything else. Getting that wrong is the most common reason people end up making a second trip to the store.

Not always — and actually, many modern faucets come with a rubber gasket that seals against the sink deck without any putty at all. Check your new faucet’s instructions first. If it has a gasket, use it as-is. If there’s no gasket and the instructions call for putty, apply a thin rope of plumber’s putty around the base before setting it in place. One thing to avoid: never use putty on stainless steel sinks or on faucets with a plastic base — it can stain or degrade those materials over time. Silicone is a better choice in those cases.

Yes — and this is a step people skip thinking it’s optional. It’s not. The counterweight on the hose is what makes the spray head retract back into place automatically after you use it. Without it, the hose just hangs loose under the sink and the head droops down instead of snapping back. Your new faucet’s instructions will show exactly where to clip it on the hose — usually there’s a color-marked section on the hose to make placement obvious. Takes about 10 seconds to do correctly.

Two checks before you call it done. First, turn the supply valves back on slowly and look underneath the sink while the water is running — watch every connection point for drips. Run your finger along each joint and check with a dry paper towel if you’re not sure. Second, flush the faucet for a full minute before using it normally. New faucets often have manufacturing debris, small particles, or sediment inside from the factory. Flushing it clears all of that out so it doesn’t end up clogging your aerator on day one. If you see any drips, tighten the connection a quarter turn at a time — don’t overtighten or you’ll crack a fitting.